Where is the Honey?
About 20-25 years ago, Wendy’s Hamburgers electrified the world with its TV and radio advertisement with a grouchy old woman disgustingly saying: Where is the BEEF? Today is July 1st, and the nectar flow and honey crop for central Maryland is O-V-E-R. True, there might be some very tiny, isolated areas in western Maryland that might make some basswood honey in early July, but in 98% of the central Maryland area, there is NO honey produced after about June 15th, and you must wait until NEXT year. Don’t argue with my 72 years of beekeeping in Montgomery County, St, Mary’s County, Calvert County, Howard County, or Rappahanock County, VA, where I have always kept a scale hive in each apiary for many years. Best that you, too, find and buy a hardware store platform scale if you want to know WHEN a nectar flow starts, when it peaks, and when it ends; and, by golly, you too, will discover that essentially NO honey is produced after about June 15th in central Maryland; and SURELY NONE in July or August. Some of you can tell tales and stories of superb honey crops being made in July, August and even September; and you are absolutely correct, but this honey was NOT produced in either central Maryland or Northern Virginia. The bygone days of crop land featuring clover, alfalfa, or buckwheat, those crops that produce nectar during the summer months are now replaced by houses, towns, and blacktop roads. Those large honey producing areas like upper New York state, midwest states like IL, MI, MN, ND, SD are very agricultural areas featuring thousands of acres of clover and alfalfa, who bear nectar for many weeks from June through August; but they don’t have our wonderful very light, slow crystallizing BLACK LOCUST or our REGAL tasting TULIP POPLAR honeys! Now to the POINT of my LESSON to you: Whatever honey your bees have made is now in your supers; but unless you HARVEST it almost immediately, is not going to be there very long! Your bees are going to move that honey OUT of the supers and take it down below into the brood chamber area! WHY? (You better learn the intricacies of bee BEHAVIOR) Didn’t your sexual desire for reproduction diminish as you aged from youth? Genetically bred into the queen by GOD is the desire to reproduce, and hence she feverishly lays eggs in the late winter months and very early spring bent on the idea of SWARMING to cover a greater area of foraging. When the nectar flow really gets going, thoughts of swarming are replaced by nectar collecting, and the queen laying is somewhat reduced. When the nectar flow stops or becomes minuscule, the workers dramatically reduce the queen laying by reducing her daily food intake. This is much more prominent with Carniolans than Italians, but both races slow their brood production. The lack of brood production leaves a lot of EMPTY CELL space in the brood chamber area; and the worker bees remove honey from the supers and take it down into the brood area; obviously preparing for the coming drought months and the coming winter where they want food supplies within the “cluster” area. Some are going to say “My bees did not produce much honey for me”; but the smart beekeeper is going to remove all the capped honey in late June for himself, leaving the UNcapped (hence, UNripened) honey for the bees and then begin feeding 2:1 thick sugar syrup for winter stores of 60-70 pounds. Why can’t the bee scientists and research people convince you that 2:1 sugar syrup feed for wintering is FAR SUPERIOR bee feed than honey? Old timers not only thought honey was best because it is “natural”, but they did NOT want to spend money for sugar. However, the past 20-30 years of bee research has definitely proven that just plain sugar (sucrose) that you use in your coffee and tea is the absolute BEST winter feed for bees, because it contains none of those things sometimes found in natural honey that causes bee sickness, notably diarrhea. I forgot to mention that you can sell your honey for about $3.50-$4.00 per pound and buy sugar at any grocery store for about $1.59-$1.99 per 5 pounds . You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to know the difference between $3.50-$4.00/ pound. Start that feeding of 2:1 sugar syrup in late September and DON’T wait until the cold weather of November. However, put your Fumadil-B, treatment for NOSEMA, in your 2:1 sugar syrup in the November feeding, so it stays in the feed all winter long thereby eliminating nosema disease.Upon my return this week from 4 weeks of traveling in VA, NC, TN, GA, and MD, I found over 800 e-mail notes on my computer, and MANY of them had to do with getting foundation drawn into DRAWN COMB. Over the last 20 years, I have addressed this question in PINK PAGES and TALKS ad infinitum. All the books have written about it, the monthly magazines have addressed the same question. Doesn’t anyone “listen” anymore? I’ll do it one more time! Bees, like some humans, do NOT plan A-H-E-A-D, but only do things as the “need” presents itself. Hence, there is absolutely NO NEED for drawn comb except for TWO reasons: brood production and food storage. Queens cannot lay eggs and bees can’t store nectar on UNDRAWN foundation, so bees MUST build comb on foundation for queen laying and nectar storage. When a nectar flow quits, bees stop drawing foundation, because there is no longer any need. We can “fool” the bees by feeding a manmade, artificial nectar of 1:1 sugar syrup, so they will continue to build comb out on foundation. I will grant you that they will not perform as well as if a real, true nectar flow was on, but a 1:1 sugar syrup enhanced with a dissolved peppermint or a few drops of vanilla extract to give the syrup an sweet odor will make the bees willingly draw comb to store that 1:1 sugar syrup, which to your surprise, THEY WILL CONVERT THAT INTO HONEY, and it will NOT be stored as sugar syrup. Perhaps I should have mentioned the conversion of sugar syrup into honey first, but YOU SHOULD KNOW THAT if you are going to be a beeKEEPER instead of a beeHAVER! Your own body does the same thing: When you put sugar (sucrose) in your coffee, your pancreas gland makes the enzyme, invertase, which breaks down that disaccharide sucrose into two mono-saccharide sugars, FRUCTOSE and GLUCOSE, and these “blood sugars” is what your doctor finds on examination of your blood. In finality, HONEY is made from sugar (sucrose), the natural sugar found in all NECTAR, and the bees CONVERT sucrose into the two sugars named FRUCTOSE and GLUCOSE by injecting the enzyme INVERTASE into the nectar as they fly home. Likewise, bees do NOT store 1:1 sugar syrup, but evaporate the water from it, add invertase, which converts it into FRUCTOSE and GLUCOSE, hence HONEY, exactly the same thing they do with locust nectar, tulip poplar nectar, clover nectar, or any other nectar! How about THAT for a LESSON?
CHANGE OF SUBJECT:
Are you going to PROTECT your extracted frames from being destroyed by wax moths? It is estimated that bees can produce 160 pounds of honey stored in drawn comb frames, but only 100 pounds if they have to build foundation into comb; hence, PROTECT YOUR DRAWN FRAMES! Extract, put an EMPTY super on top of the inner cover, and your wet frame super on top of that, and tightly cover with your hive cover. Leave it there for 2-3 days, and the bees will meticulously clean the frames almost totally dry. Then, place the supers out in the sun light with lots of air circulation for another 2-3 days. Then, stack them in your garage or basement, add 1-2 tablespoons of PDB, para-dichloro-benzene, to each super and seal them up. Repeat in 30-45 days, but not necessary after November 1st. Your frames will be roaring to go in April for a full crop of next years honey! Procedures to be done prior to December Why do I mention this in July? I plan a-h-e-a-d, plus some don’t follow my suggestions about the TIME to do things, resulting in FAILURES. This my last chance to HELP YOU!- Remove all frames of capped honey RIGHT NOW!
- Install Menthol to kill tracheal mites on August 15th – September is TOO LATE
- REQUEEN colonies in late August before September Labor Day
- COMBINE a weak colony with a strong colony during September. Not only is a weak colony a lot of work attempting to get it through the winter, but it will not be able to build up to capture our April-May nectar flow. Strong colonies in October will be strong colonies in April, whereas a weak colony in October even if it gets through the winter, lacks bees, hence preventing brood rearing in February and March because of lack of cluster heat to prevent brood chill.
- Start feeding 2:1 sugar syrup in September with the aim of having 14 DEEP frames filled by December 1st, or 20 MEDIUM frames.
- Feed Fumadil-B in late October and November dissolved in your 2:1 sugar syrup to prevent NOSEMA infection in the coming spring.